Going!
My wave. I'm going. Left...
Cisco Beach, Nantucket.
Surf's up!
Beach breaks hardly ever get the credit they deserve. Not in comparison to their reef break cousins, who just so happen to trade in a bit more consistency.
Beach breaks are that little bit more unpredictable, relying on how the ocean forms banks or bars of sand below. To churn up the barrels that we ride.
They make you work that little bit harder to find the 'sweet spot'.
That just makes it all the more satisfying, gratifying, so there's no point in classifying the beach break as not at all worth it.
It always is... Especially when the local town has turned back to the ways of the original Native Americans, who would open the ponds of the south shore to the wide open North Atlantic, and let the waters work their magic.
Creating currents that preserved the clay-anchored sand bar that is Nantucket from washing away in every stormy winter...
Ride on.